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Analysis of wave observations and wave transformations in Abu-qir, Egypt.

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Author
Sharaf El-Din, S.H.
Abdallah, A.M.
Shereet, S.M.
Date
2006

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Alternative Title
تحليل قياسات الأمواج والتحولات الموجية فى خليج ابو قير,مصر
Abstract
Wave observations taken during 1986 in Abu-Qir Bay were statistically analyzed to calculate the wave parameters describing the sea state (significant wave height, wave period and predominant direction). On both sides of Rosetta promontory, the transformed wave parameters at break line (breaker height, breaker depth and crest angle) were calculated in terms of the predominant values of the significant wave height, period and direction using ACES software package. Breaker type and closure depth along Rosetta coast were also predicted. Generally, the wave effect in the bay was varying in intensity and direction in accordance with the prevailing wind. The average annual wave height and period are about 0.94 m and 6.5 s, respectively. Throughout the year, the predominant waves come from the NW direction (42%). Waves with significant height of about 4 m and period of about 11 s were infrequently observed during winter and summer gales. The wave characteristics at breaker line on both sides of Rosetta promontory are approximately similar. Generally, most of the waves along Rosetta coast break at about 1.7 m depth with a breaker height of about 1.5 m. The surf similarity parameter (0) was found to be equal 0.16, predicting that the spilling breaker predominates along Rosetta beaches. The closure depth (dc) associated with the extreme wave conditions along Rosetta coast during 1986 was estimated to be equal 9.3 m, predicting a seaward limit of littoral transport to lie at about 0.5 km from the shoreline.
فى هذا البحث تم عمل تحليل احصائى لبيانات الأمواج البحرية المقاسة فى خليج ابى قير سنة 1986وذلك لحساب المتغيرات الموجية التى تصف حالة البحر(ارتفاع وفترة الموجة واتجاهها السائد).كذلك تم حساب المتغيرات الخاصة بالموجات المتحولة عند خط تكسيرها على جانبى مصب رشيد. وقد تبين من هذه الدراسة ان نظام الأمواج فى خليج ابى قير متباين فى الشدة والأتجاه وذلك تمشيا مع نظام الرياح السائدة فى المنطقة. وبصفة عامة نجد ان المتوسط السنوى لأرتفاع الموجة وفترتها على التوالى يساوى 0.94 متر و 6.5 ثانية وان الأتجاه السائد للأمواج هو اتجاه الشمال الغربى. وقد لوحظ ايضا تولد امواج ذات ارتفاعات عالية نسبيا قد يصل ارتفاعها الى حولى 4 امتار وبفترات موجية تساوى 11 ثانية وذلك خلال فترات العواصف البحرية التى قد تحدث فى فصلى الشتاء والصيف. وقد تبين من هذا البحث ايضا تماثل خواص الأمواج المتحولة على جانبى مصب رشيد وانها تتكسربصفة عامة عند عمق يساوى 1.7 متر وبارتفاع يساوى 1.5 متر. وقد وجد ايضا ان معامل السيرف عند ساحل رشيد يساوى 0.16 وهو مايدل على ان الأمواج فى تلك المنطقة تتكسر فى معظم الأحيان بطريقة تدريجية. كذلك اتضح ايضا ان المنطقة النشطة لنقل الرواسب الشاطئية عند ساحل رشيد تمتد من خط الساحل الى خط عمق حوالى10 متر والذى يبعد مسافة تقدر بحوالى 500 متر من الساحل
Journal
Egyptian journal of aquatic research
Volume
32
Issue/Article Nr
1
Publisher or University
National Institute of Oceanography and Fisheries (NIOF)
URI
http://hdl.handle.net/1834/1449
Collections
Egyptian Journal of Aquatic Research

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